Restaurant Review

Japan Journey Journal Part 2. Restaurant Yanagiya: Revered Country Cuisine Sketched In Charcoal.

If you’re gourmand enough, the food gods will smile upon you and leadeth you into temptation of any restaurant you wish to enter, which often means the ones you think you may never be able to enter. Most notable among these in the fairly recent past are Jamin–later to become Restaurant Robuchon– in the late 1980s and early 1990s (Those old enough may remember the Parisian restaurant anti-American boycott at the time); Restaurant Girardet outside of Lausanne, especially after Morley Safer did a segment for“60 Minutes” about it more than 30 years ago; and more recently elBulli, Can Roca. Noma, Osteria Francescana and Alinea.

Japan is loaded with difficult-to-book restaurants, particularly some of the sushi and kaiseki ones in Tokyo. In planning my recent trip to Japan, a provincial restaurant named Yanagia caught my eye because of its sky-high Tabelog score.

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Recommendations

Feeding Off Each Other: Brandon Granier & Robert Brown Discuss Les Maisons de Bricourt–Olivier & Jane Roellinger’s Brittany Seafood Haven

We welcome, or welcome back, readers of “Restaurant Politics” after a hiatus during which we contributed to Gastromondiale. By we, I mean myself and Brandon Granier, who is not only an ardent, highly active international restaurant-goer, but possessor of a first-rate mind and an abundance of intellectual curiosity. (For a more detailed description of our […]

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Complaints Dept.

Jörg Zipprick: “Why the Beautiful Has Replaced the Good”

Regarded in Western Europe, and increasingly so in China, as one of the relatively-few independent-minded, outspoken gastronomic writers and critics, Jörg Zipprick is unafraid of tackling controversial subjects and resisting selling out or writing either thinly-disguised or blatant PR. He has created a large repertoire of praise-worthy, widely-read books and articles. Because he writes mostly […]

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Book Review

Post-Script to “The Society of the Illusionists”. “Polar Opposites Detract”: The World’s 50 Best Restaurants List and Slow Food’s ‘Osterie d’Italia’ “.

A few weeks ago at daybreak when the brain is at its most agile, I realized that the World’s 50 Best Restaurants list or W50B (see “The Society of the Illusionists”), had a polar-opposite: the Slow Food’s guidebook “Osterie d’Italia”.The difference obviously has nothing to do with practicality, as the former directs you to 100 […]

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Recommendations

Smart St. Barth: An overview of the cuisine and more.

“Paradise” is a word that you shouldn’t bandy about, but at least reserve it for a place that is undeniably one, such as St. Barth. The variety of the undulating terrain’s is never monotonous; you can reach the furthest point from wherever you are in 20 to 25 minutes; the ocean views are mesmerizing and […]

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