Complaints Dept.

Mouthing Off: Let the Dining Room Belong to the Diner

That gastronomy, particularly the fine dining kind, has drastically changed over the past three or four decades is beyond any doubt. One of the more-significant ways is the shift from good and gifted chefs doing the maximum to serve and please their clientele to what is now many “celebrity” chefs increasingly controlling at your expense […]

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TV Review

 Boobtubefood: “Chef’s Table: France”.

Reviewed by Robert Brown Lovely to look at, impossibly delightful to hold, the Netflix mini-series “Chef’s Table: France” has as its primary concern the taste of food which, unlike paintings, prints, movies, photographs and the written word, can’t be grasped and retained, but only implied. It is a misfortune shared with every manifestation of “food […]

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Recommendations, Restaurant Review

Le Coucou: A Tail of Two Pheasants.

Reviewed by Robert Brown The battlefield of New York restaurants is filled with the remains of foreign adventurism gone awry. Ever since the 1939 New York World’s Fair at which Henri Soulé started Restaurant Le Pavilon, foreign chefs and restaurateurs, most of whom have been from France, have both been eaten up or taken the […]

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Book Reviews, France

Sophisticated Foodie: Edward Behr’s New Book, “The Food & Wine of France: Eating & Drinking from Champagne to Provence”

Reviewed by Robert Brown In the 700 or so years of the history of culinary books, what publishers call food narratives are mere babies. After eliminating cookbooks, diet and nutrition books and those that politicize food, what you have left pretty much can be called food narratives. The general sub-categories are books about wine; ingredients; […]

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